For his Spring Collection this year, Siddharta Upadhyaya implements the innovative Direct Panel on Loom (DPOL) zero waste design technique, utilizing computer-aided designs in weaving fabrics scraps and textures as design ornaments and design elements.
Dubbed as his Zero Waster Fashion Collection for Spring 2012, Upadhyaya’s collection was featured in the Ethical Fashion Show in Paris, and is described as an immersed study on the commercial and industrial feasibility of zero-waste designs.
Basically, the DPOL method implemented by Upadhyaya utilizes a special loom which is linked to a computer. The loom weaves garment sections in relation to the specifications of a computer-made design directive or design standard. Once the loom is done weaving the sections, the pieces are then sewn together, thereby completing the piece.
In effect, no amount of fabric is wasted in the creation process since every inch of fabric is pre-calculated and estimated to be exactly within an item’s required amounts. Dyes, yarn, threads and other materials used in the making of fabrics is significantly saved, with production lead times even lessened by 50% off their traditional production timeframes.
Utilizing Khadi – a popular handwoven organic cotton cloth – Upadhyaya also works with bamboo fabrics and raw silk in creating his creations, using extracts from fruits and plants as natural dyes. The flora and fauna used in extracting dyes are grown and maintained by the August design studio.
Critique over Upadhyaya’s collection stand as mixed, with some implying that the collection would be better if it were more “conservative”, mostly to the tune of saying it could be less “tacky”. Others are impressed with what Upadhyaya has done.
But all in all, it’s the technique used by Upadhyaya that’s been getting a lot of positive response, a good start, so to speak, in setting a new standard in the way high fashion items are made from the ground up.